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(From now through spring)

Late February

Slow growers & cool-season crops

• Onions (from seed)
• Leeks
• Celery
• Celeriac
• Parsley
• Chives
• Snapdragons
• Pansies & violas
• Sweet peas (can also bedirect-sown outside soon)

💡 Use bottom heat for best germination.

Early–Mid March

Cold-tolerant veggies & early flowers

• Broccoli
• Cabbage
• Cauliflower
• Kale
• Swiss chard
• Lettuce (indoors or undercover outside)
• Scabiosa
• Dianthus
• Larkspur (or direct sow late March)

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What to Prune in February in the Lower Mainland of BC

February is one of the most important pruning months in the Lower Mainland. With many plants still dormant and growth habits clearly visible, late winter pruning sets the stage for healthier plants, stronger structure, and better flowering and fruiting later in the season. When done correctly, pruning improves plant health, directs growth, repairs damage, and rejuvenates older plants.

This guide is based on the core principles from our Art of Pruning guide and tailored specifically to what gardeners should be focusing on in February.

🌱 Why Prune in Late Winter?

Proper pruning is guided by how a plant grows and what you want to achieve. Pruning in February allows you to:

• Control growth and direction by redirecting energy to desired buds and branches
• Promote plant health by removing dead, damaged, or crossing wood
• Encourage flowers and fruit on plants that bloom or produce on new wood
• Rejuvenate and repair plants damaged by wind, snow, or age
• Maintain shape and function in hedges, espaliers, and trained plants

🌳 Trees to Prune in February

Fruit Trees

Late winter is the ideal time to prune most fruit trees before sap flow and bud break.

Why prune fruit trees now:

• Encourages better fruit production
• Repairs winter storm damage
• Thins dense growth for improved airflow and sunlight
• Helps train young trees into strong, productive forms

When pruning, remember that removing the terminal (end) bud redirects growth to lateral side buds, creating a denser, more productive branch structure.

Common training styles include:

• Open centre
• Modified central leader
• Central leader
• Espalier (ideal for small spaces and walls)

Always prune to outward-facing buds and keep lower branches longer than upper ones to maintain balance.

🌿 Shrubs to Prune Now

Summer-Flowering Shrubs (Bloom on New Wood)

These shrubs benefit most from February pruning:

• Roses (most types)
• Hydrangea paniculata and arborescens
• Buddleia (Butterfly Bush)
• Potentilla
• Summer-blooming Spirea

Hard pruning on these plants encourages vigorous new growth and improved flowering.

Rejuvenation Pruning

Some shrubs respond best when older wood is removed to stimulate new growth.

• Forsythia (remove older two-year wood)
• Cornus, Ribes/Althea
• Weeping Willow and Robinia (regular thinning prevents storm damage)

🌹 Roses: A February Essential

Pruning roses improves vigor, shape, air circulation, and helps prevent disease.

What to remove:

• Dead, diseased, or winter-damaged canes
• Weak or crossing branches
• Any growth below the bud union (graft)
• On budded trees only – not Roses on their own root

How to prune:

• Reduce plants to 5–10 strong canes – Reducing overall growth by 60-75%
• Make cuts ¼ inch above an outward-facing bud at a 45° angle

Rose-specific tips:

• Shrub roses: Remove a few oldest canes at the base and reduce remaining growth by one-third
• Climbing roses: Prune lightly; bloom best on two-year-old wood
• Tree roses: Reduce top growth by about half each year
• English roses: After year two, prune by one-third to one-half depending on desired size

🍇 Vines, Berries & Specialty Plants

Prune in February:

• Grapes: Cut side shoots back to 2–3 buds; remove thin shoots
• Raspberries: Remove two-year-old canes to ground level and thin rows
• Kiwi vines
• Wisteria (main structural pruning)

These plants produce fruit on specific wood types, so correct timing is critical.

Always remember that it is best to prune after flowering

🚫 What NOT to Prune Yet

Avoid pruning spring-flowering plants that bloom on old wood until after flowering:

• Rhododendrons
• Azaleas
• Camellias
• Lilacs
• Magnolias
• Forsythia (except for rejuvenation of older plants)

Pruning these now will remove this year’s flower buds.

✂️ Pruning Hedges in Late Winter

February is a good time to shape and maintain hedges, especially deciduous ones.

Hedge types:

• Formal hedges: Sheared for clean lines (e.g. boxwood)
• Informal hedges: Selectively pruned to maintain natural shape (e.g. rhododendrons, native cedars)

Quick hedge tips:

• Keep the base wider than the top to allow sunlight to reach lower branches
• Prune yearly or even twice a year, even when young
• Finish pruning early enough for new growth to harden before winter

🛠 Essential Pruning Tools

Using the right tools—and keeping them sharp—is key to clean cuts and healthy plants.

Hand Pruners (Secateurs)

• Best for small branches
• Choose hook-and-blade (bypass) styles for clean cuts

Loppers

• Two-handed tools for thicker branches
• Hook-and-blade styles with leverage are preferred

Pruning Saws

• Folding saws for portability
• Fine-tooth saws for shrubs and roses
• Curved rigid saws for larger limbs

Hedge Shears

• Essential for formal hedges
• Look for comfort, balance, and blade quality

Pole Pruners & Saws

• Ideal for high branches without ladders
• Most cut on the pull stroke

Tool Care

• Keep blades sharp to avoid frayed cuts
• Clean tools with rubbing alcohol between plants
• Lightly oil before storing
• Sharp tools are essential for proper pruning.

Remember: dull tools cause slow healing and increase disease risk.

🌿 Final Pruning Tips for the Lower Mainland

• Prune on dry days whenever possible
• Always remove broken, diseased, or crossing branches
• Make clean cuts at a 45° angle just above an outward-facing bud
• When in doubt, prune less—plants can always be pruned again
• Do not prune leader on tall evergreen species

A little careful pruning in February goes a long way toward healthier plants and a more beautiful garden all year long.

If you’re unsure how or when to prune a specific plant, our team is always happy to help.

Need more detail? Download our Art of Pruning Pamphlet

The post What to prune now? What to prune later? by Cedar Rim Nursery appeared first on Cedar Rim Nursery.

Winter can be tough on houseplants. Shorter days, lower light, dry indoor air, and cooler temperatures all slow plant growth and can stress even your toughest greenery. The good news? With a few simple adjustments, you can keep your plants healthy – and even thriving – until spring.

Below are practical, easy-to-follow tips to help your houseplants make it through winter in great shape.

1. Adjust Your Watering Routine

Most houseplants grow more slowly in winter, which means they need less water. Over-watering is the number one cause of winter plant problems.

What to do: – Check soil moisture before watering – don’t rely on a schedule. – Allow the top inch or two of soil to dry out for most plants. – Empty saucers after watering to prevent root rot.

Exception: Tropical plants with thin leaves may still need consistent moisture, just not soggy soil.

2. Maximize Available Light

With shorter days and weaker sunlight, many plants struggle to get enough light in winter.

What to do: – Move plants closer to windows, especially south- or west-facing ones. – Rotate plants every couple of weeks for even growth. – Clean dust off leaves so plants can absorb more light. – Consider a grow light for light-loving plants.

3. Increase Humidity

Indoor heating creates dry air that many houseplants – especially tropical varieties – don’t love.

What to do: – Group plants together to create a humid micro-climate. – Use a humidifier nearby. – Place plants on pebble trays filled with water (pots should sit above the water line).

Avoid misting as your main humidity solution – it’s short-lived and can encourage disease if overdone.

4. Watch the Temperature

Houseplants prefer stable temperatures, even in winter.

What to do: – Keep plants away from cold drafts, windows at night, and exterior doors. – Avoid placing plants near heat vents or radiators. – Most houseplants are happiest between 18–24°C (65–75°F).

5. Hold Off on Fertilizer

Since plants aren’t actively growing, fertilizing in winter can do more harm than good.

What to do: – Stop fertilizing most houseplants from late fall to early spring. – Resume feeding when you see new growth in spring.

6. Don’t Rush Re-potting

Winter is not the ideal time to re-pot unless absolutely necessary.

What to do: – Wait until spring when plants are actively growing. – Only re-pot in winter if a plant is severely root-bound or has drainage issues.

7. Keep an Eye Out for Pests

Dry winter conditions can invite pests like spider mites, mealybugs, and scale.

What to do: – Inspect leaves (especially undersides) regularly. – Wipe leaves with a damp cloth. – Isolate affected plants quickly and treat early.

8. Embrace a Little Imperfection

Some yellowing leaves or slower growth is normal in winter. Your plant isn’t failing – it’s resting.

What to do: – Remove dead or yellow leaves to keep plants tidy. – Be patient and avoid over-correcting.

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Your Real Guide to Growing Success

Dahlias may be total showstoppers, but they come with their fair share of garden gossip. Let’s set the record straight so you can dive into the season feeling confident and ready to grow.

Myth 1: Dahlias can’t grow in pots.

False — they’re surprisingly container-friendly with the right setup.

They’re actually an excellent choice for patios and decks, offering big colour without needing garden bed space. Dahlias can absolutely thrive in containers when given:

• A large pot (minimum 14–16” across for most varieties)
• Rich, well-draining soil. We recommend using Home & Garden Perennial Mix.
• Consistent watering – containers dry out faster.
• Strong support like a central stake or tomato cage
• A compact or border variety if you prefer something tidy. We would suggest a Bronze-leaf or Ball Variety.

Myth 2: Pinching harms the plant

False — it encourages more stems, better branching, and bigger harvests.

Pinching may feel counter-intuitive – snipping off the top of a perfectly healthy dahlia plant – but it’s actually one of the best things you can do for a fuller, more productive plant. Removing the top 3–4 inches when the plant reaches about 12–16 inches tall signals the dahlia to branch out, producing multiple strong stems instead of one tall, lanky shoot.

The result?

• More blooms throughout the season
• Longer, sturdier stems ideal for cutting
• A bushier, more balanced plant that’s easier to support
• Better overall production, especially in smaller spaces
• In short: a quick pinch early on leads to a bigger, better, bloomier plant all summer long.

Myth 3: Dahlias are hard to grow.

False — they’re surprisingly beginner-friendly with just a few simple essentials.

Dahlias have a reputation for being fussy, but most of that comes from overthinking them. In reality, they’re one of the most rewarding flowers for new gardeners because they grow fast, bounce back easily, and deliver huge colour for very little effort.

• Give them sun, well-drained soil, and room to grow, and they’ll do most of the work themselves. You don’t need special fertilizers, complicated pruning, or expert techniques—just plant the tuber, wait for warm weather, and let them take off.
• Once they’re growing, regular harvesting (or deadheading) keeps the blooms coming, and even gardeners who “forget” a step here or there still end up with gorgeous flowers.
• Bottom line: Dahlias aren’t divas—they’re generous, forgiving plants that look fancy but act like easygoing garden friends. Perfect for beginners and seasoned growers alike.

The post Debunking Dahlia Myths by Cedar Rim Nursery appeared first on Cedar Rim Nursery.

January To Do List

1. Dormant-Season Tasks

These are perfect for January when plants are still mostly sleeping:

✅ Spray dormant oil (and lime sulfur)

Apply dormant oil to kill overwintering pests (mites, scales, aphids) on deciduous trees, shrubs and roses before buds break. Best done on a dry, frost-free day with mild temps (≥ ~5 °C) and no rain forecast for a couple of days.

✅ Prune while dormant

Trim fruit trees, grapevines, shrubs, dead wood and hedges — pruning now improves shape, airflow, and future blooms/fruit.

✅ Mulch beds (weather permitting)

Add a layer of compost, bark chips or leaf mold to protect soil, conserve moisture, and suppress weeds — but only if the ground isn’t frozen or soggy.

🌿 2. Clean, Protect & Organize

Even when it’s cold, there are prepping and maintenance jobs you can do:

🛠 Tool care

• Sharpen and clean tools
• Apply light oil to hand tools to prevent rust
• Organize winter covers, frost cloths and garden ties
  These small tasks make spring easier and protect your gear.

🐦 Help wildlife

• Fill bird feeders and keep fresh water available — wild birds need extra energy now.

🍂 Tidy up beds

• Remove debris and fallen leaves from beds to reduce disease harbouring
• Rake leaves off lawns before they smother grass.

🪴 3. Planting & Planning

January is still early but you can start some things now:

🌳 Bare-root planting

• Bare-root trees and shrubs can be planted while dormant if soil isn’t frozen or oversaturated.

📅 Plan your season

• Go through seed catalogs, sketch garden layouts, and order what you need now.

🌱 Indoor seed starts

• Start seeds indoors under lights for long-season crops (salad greens, onions & leeks, herbs) if you’re eager.
• 
  (Just avoid starting too early; short winter days slow growth.)

🌸 4. Watch & Protect

Even if you can’t dig much yet:

☀ Check for early signs of spring

• Bulbs like snowdrops or hellebores might begin to poke through — watch gently.

❄ Safeguard plants

• Protect tender plants from severe frost with fleece or burlap when cold snaps hit.

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Pre-Order a Dahlia.

Click Below to Explore our 2026 Dahlia Catalogue.

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Pre-Order your Roses for this Spring.

Click Below to Explore our 2026 Rose Catalogue.

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As the holiday season approaches, many of us are eager to deck our halls with festive decorations and immerse ourselves in the spirit of Christmas. While artificial and cut Christmas trees have been popular choices for decades, there’s a sustainable and enchanting alternative that’s gaining attention – living Christmas trees. In this blog, we’ll explore the magic of living Christmas trees and how they can add a unique, eco-friendly twist to your holiday celebrations. Cedar Rim nursery has a wide variety of trees in a host of different sizes, suitable for any home and budget.

1. What Are Living Christmas Trees?

Living Christmas trees are real, potted evergreen trees that are purchased and displayed during the holiday season. Unlike traditional cut trees that are destined for disposal after the festivities, living trees are intended to be cared for and planted in your yard or a suitable outdoor location once the holiday season is over.

2. Sustainability Benefits:

• Reducing waste: One of the most significant advantages of living Christmas trees is that they don’t end up in landfills after the holidays. They continue to grow and thrive, providing oxygen and other environmental benefits.
• Carbon sequestration: These trees absorb carbon dioxide, making them valuable contributors to combating climate change.
• Encouraging reforestation: When you plant your living Christmas tree, you’re helping to increase the number of trees in your community, improving local air and water quality.

3. Care and Maintenance:

To ensure your living Christmas tree stays healthy, consider the following tips:

• Try to keep the tree inside for a minimal amount of time as is possible. 10-14 days maximum is advised.
• When your tree is brought inside place it in a spot that is as bright as possible.
• Keep the tree away from any direct sources of heat such as a fireplace or heat register.
• Water the tree once a week, you may find it easier to place a saucer under the pot so that any excess water doesn’t sit in the pot. If the tree is in a pot that doesn’t drain, be super cautious not to over water. Moist but not wet is the key!
• Try to keep the room cooler if possible, if the room is too hot the tree will need more water and may become stressed.
• When putting it outdoors again, place it in a sheltered spot for a few days next to the house or under a porch before moving it further out in the garden or plant in the ground. Planting in a larger pot but sinking it in the ground will allow it to be dug up easier the following holiday season.

4. Decorating Your Living Christmas Tree:

Just like traditional Christmas trees, living trees can be beautifully decorated with ornaments, lights, and other festive decorations. However, be mindful not to damage the tree while decorating, and use LED lights to reduce energy consumption.

7. Conclusion:

Living Christmas trees offer a sustainable, eco-friendly way to celebrate the holiday season while making a positive impact on the environment. They not only reduce waste but also contribute to reforestation efforts. Consider making the switch to a living Christmas tree this year and add a touch of magic to your holiday celebrations while caring for the planet. Embrace this environmentally conscious tradition and make your Christmas truly “green”!

Feel free to reach out to the nursery for advice or questions on living Christmas trees at: https://cedarrim.com/contact/

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